Jakar Dzong on its ridge above the Bumthang valley, low cloud drifting over the forest below

Grand journey · 9 nights

Bhutan: Into the Heart

Five valleys from west to east, Taktsang to Bumthang's oldest temples, and a small plane back to Paro.

  • 9nights, private
  • 5bases
  • 3,420 mhighest point
  • ₹9,50,000from, per person, twin share

In short

Is Bhutan: Into the Heart right for you?

Bhutan: Into the Heart is a private nine-night journey across Bhutan, from Paro east to Bumthang, the country's religious heartland. You sleep in Paro, Thimphu, Punakha and the Phobjikha valley on the way, cross Pele La into central Bhutan, and fly back from Bumthang to Paro in 35 minutes.

Made forsecond-time visitors to the Himalaya, couples and friends drawn to Buddhist history, families with children over 12 and walkers happy with 2 to 3 hours on foot.

Not for you ifyou have six nights or fewer, or long mountain roads unsettle you, choose Bhutan: The Western Valleys, which never strays more than a few hours from Paro.

Most first visits to Bhutan turn round at Punakha. This one keeps going, into the middle of the country, where Bumthang's valleys grow buckwheat, weave wool and keep some of the oldest temples in Bhutan. Jambay Lhakhang there was raised in 659, the same year as Kyichu in Paro, where you begin: two of the 108 temples a Tibetan king is said to have built to pin a demoness to the earth, standing at either end of your week.

Between them runs one family line. Pema Lingpa, the treasure revealer born in the Tang valley in 1450, is the ancestor of Bhutan's kings. His grandson founded the monastery at Gangtey, where lay monks still keep the lamps above the Phobjikha marsh. Pema Lingpa himself died in 1521 at Tamshing, the temple he built, and the gorge where he is said to have dived with a lit lamp is the last place you stand. On the way you pass under Trongsa Dzong, where Ugyen Wangchuck, his descendant, governed central Bhutan before he was crowned the first king in 1907.

Length
9 nights, 10 days
Starts and ends
Paro airport to Paro airport
Best months
October to November, March to May
Avoid
mid June to mid September (monsoon); December to February, when Bumthang freezes and its flights drop to two a week
Pace
Moderate
Longest drive
About 6 hours, 536 km in all
Highest point
Pele La, 3,420 m
Group
Private, 2 to 6 guests

The route

Why Paro comes first

West to east, because Paro holds the international airport and the roads lengthen as you go. Taktsang comes on day two because this route never returns to Paro except to change planes: the Bumthang flight lands there on your last morning. Thimphu needs only a night. Punakha, at 1,200 m, is the lowest bed of the journey and sits just before two nights near 2,900 m in Phobjikha. Bumthang comes last, after the longest drive, and the flight back saves the two days it would take to drive west again.

Jomolhari 7,326 m Paro airport 1 Paro · 2 nights 2 Thimphu · 1 night 3 Punakha · 2 nights 4 Gangtey (Phobjikha valley) · 2 nights 5 Bumthang (Jakar) · 2 nights
your bases, in orderby roadby airborders not drawn

Where the nights go

Read the place guidesBhutan

The shape of the journey

From 1,200 m to 3,420 m, day by day

You sleep between 1,200 m and 2,900 m. The highest you go is 3,420 m, on day 8 at Pele La, and you come down again to sleep.

Built around

Paro, Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey (Phobjikha valley) and Bumthang (Jakar) at their best

  • Taktsang on day two, with ponies booked to the halfway cafeteria for anyone who would rather ride

  • Two temples from the year 659 as bookends: Kyichu in Paro on the first evening, Jambay in Bumthang

  • Two nights in Phobjikha with the lay monks of Gangtey, the monastery Pema Lingpa's grandson founded in 1613

  • Trongsa Dzong above its gorge, where the future first king governed before 1907

  • Butter lamps at dusk on the rocks of Mebar Tsho, Pema Lingpa's Burning Lake

  • No two-day drive back: a 35-minute Drukair flight from Bumthang to Paro

Day by day

Day by day, Paro to Bumthang (Jakar)

The longest drive is day 8, Gangtey to Bumthang (Jakar), about 6 hours with stops.

  1. Day 1 · Paro airport Paro

    Paro, and a temple from the year 659

    • 15 km, about 0.5 h
    • High point 2,200 m
    • Sleep at 2,200 m
    • Easy
    Stone path through the rose garden of Kyichu Lhakhang to its white chorten and gold roofed temple, framed by the gate

    Whichever flight brings you in, your guide waits beyond customs in a gho, with the entry permit we filed and a local SIM card for each of you. Zhiwaling Heritage is about 20 minutes away, and we will have asked for early check-in. Keep the afternoon light: the Paro valley sits at 2,200 m and tomorrow climbs higher. At 16:00 we drive five minutes north of town to Kyichu Lhakhang, the first of the two temples from the year 659 that bracket this journey; its twin in age, Jambay Lhakhang, waits for you in Bumthang on day nine. Off the afternoon Delhi flight, we go there straight from the runway. At dusk Paro's elders walk its circuit turning the prayer wheels, and the butter lamps are already lit inside. Dinner at the hotel is early: red rice and a gentle ema datshi to test your tolerance for chilli.

    The momentYour first butter lamps in Bhutan, in a temple raised in 659, nearly a thousand years before Paro's dzong

    InsiderPhotograph Kyichu's courtyard tonight. On day nine you stand in Jambay's, raised the same year at the other end of the country, and the two pictures side by side make the week's distance plain.

    If the weather turnsIf cloud over Paro delays your flight, we keep the room and dinner, and move Kyichu Lhakhang to the morning of day three before the Thimphu drive.

    Meals
    Dinner
  2. Day 2 · Paro

    Taktsang, while your legs are fresh

    • 25 km, about 1 h
    • High point 3,120 m
    • Sleep at 2,200 m
    • Active
    Taktsang monastery seen across the gorge through pine branches from the viewpoint path, forested valley far below

    Taktsang on fresh legs, and on day two for a reason: this route never comes back to Paro except to change planes, so the climb comes first. Breakfast at 06:30 and the trail at 07:30, about 25 minutes from the hotel, with ponies booked to the halfway cafeteria for anyone who would rather ride. Distance, opening hours and the pony rules are on our Bhutan page (/destinations/bhutan/#taktsang). The car waits at the trailhead from 13:00, and the rest of the day is about food and rest. Late lunch is in a farmhouse kitchen in the valley: red rice, kewa datshi, which is potatoes in soft cheese, from the family's wood stove, and suja, the salted butter tea, poured before you have your boots off. Then nothing at all until an early dinner at Zhiwaling. Tomorrow starts slowly, so tonight there is no alarm.

    The momentRounding the last bend of the viewpoint path and finding Taktsang level with you across the gorge

    InsiderOur guides call a short stop every 15 minutes, needed or not. It is the surest way to reach the gate with breath and knees to spare for the stairs inside.

    If the weather turnsIf rain sets in, we wait for it to pass and start later, or stop at the cafeteria viewpoint; wet steps below the waterfall are not worth a twisted ankle.

    Meals
    Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
  3. Day 3 · Paro Thimphu

    The jewel fortress, then the capital

    • 60 km, about 1 h
    • High point 2,320 m
    • Sleep at 2,320 m
    • Easy
    The painted traffic police pavilion at a Norzin Lam junction in Thimphu, an officer inside and shopfronts behind

    A slow start after the climb. At 09:00 your guide walks you through the courtyards of Rinpung Dzong and down to the wooden bridge below its walls. Away at 10:30 for Thimphu, an hour by the river road, and lunch in town. At 14:30 comes the Royal Textile Academy, which trains young weavers in Bhutan's traditional craft and restores old cloth for dzongs and monasteries. An hour here teaches your eye what to look for in yathra, the patterned wool of Bumthang, which you meet in the Chumey valley on day eight. Before dinner, Tashichho Dzong, where the king keeps his office, in the last hour of daylight. This is your one night in the capital; dinner is at Pemako, the former Taj Tashi, a short walk from the dzong road.

    The momentStanding among the looms at the Textile Academy, learning to read Bhutanese patterns five days before you reach the valleys that weave yathra

    InsiderSave your textile shopping for day eight. The road to Jakar runs down the Chumey valley, and your guide stops there if you want yathra, the woven wool Bumthang is known for.

    If the weather turnsIf Tashichho Dzong is closed for a state function, we take the Folk Heritage Museum and the Buddha Dordenma hill at sunset instead.

    Meals
    Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
  4. Day 4 · Thimphu Punakha

    Over Dochu La and down to the rice valley

    • 75 km, about 3 h
    • High point 3,100 m
    • Sleep at 1,200 m
    • Easy
    Punakha Dzong's whitewashed walls and gold roofs above the Mo Chhu, jacaranda in flower and the covered bridge at left

    Leave at 08:30 while the valley is still in shade, stop for tea among the 108 chortens on Dochu La, 3,100 m, then drop 49 km of hairpins into warm air, orange trees and rice. Lunch at COMO Uma Punakha, barely a dozen rooms on a hill above the paddies. At 15:00 you walk over the covered bridge into Punakha Dzong, where, in the Machey Lhakhang of the southern courtyard, the embalmed body of the Zhabdrung, the lama who unified Bhutan, lies in a casket that is never opened. Remember him on day eight: in 1647 he raised the first dzong at Trongsa, on the road into the heart of the country, where a temple had stood since 1543. Walk the courtyards slowly and climb the steep wooden stairs to the upper temples. Dinner at the lodge, with the valley lights below.

    The momentStanding outside the Machey Lhakhang, where the lama who founded Trongsa's fortress lies in a casket no one opens

    InsiderPunakha sits some 1,100 m below Thimphu. Take a light layer into the dzong and leave the down jacket in the car: you will want it in Phobjikha the day after tomorrow.

    If the weather turnsIf fog sits on Dochu La, we stop for the chortens anyway and give the saved time to Punakha Dzong; on this route the view is a bonus, not the purpose.

    Meals
    Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
  5. Day 5 · Punakha

    A queen's chorten and the Divine Madman's temple

    • 30 km, about 1 h
    • High point 1,400 m
    • Sleep at 1,200 m
    • Moderate
    The Mo Chhu winding north between rice fields and forested ridges in the Punakha valley, cloud over the far hills

    At 08:00 the car follows the Mo Chhu upstream to Yepaisa village. A footbridge crosses the river, and a path climbs about 30 minutes through paddy and pine to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, raised by the Queen Mother in 2004, whose roof looks up the valley towards the snows. Down by 10:30 and back to the lodge for lunch. At 14:30 we drop you at Sopsokha on the Lobesa road, and you walk 20 minutes through the fields to Chimi Lhakhang, founded in 1499 on a hillock blessed by Drukpa Kunley, the fifteenth-century saint who taught through outrageous humour. The village walls are painted with phalluses, his protective symbol. Couples come to ask for a child, and those whose prayer is answered return to draw the baby's name from bamboo slips on the altar. The entry fees for both days are settled before you arrive. Evening at the COMO Shambhala spa, or by the fire.

    The momentLooking north from the chorten roof as the Mo Chhu folds into the hills towards the snow

    InsiderCarry small notes for the altar at Chimi. After your offering the caretaker pours a little blessed water into your palm: sip it, then pass your hand over your head.

    If the weather turnsIf rain turns the chorten path to mud, we keep Chimi Lhakhang, which is on the flat, and arrange an hour of Bhutanese archery at a local range instead.

    Meals
    Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
  6. Day 6 · Punakha Gangtey (Phobjikha valley)

    Up to Phobjikha and the lay monks of Gangtey

    • 78 km, about 3 h
    • High point 3,250 m
    • Sleep at 2,900 m
    • Easy
    Gangtey Goenpa's main temple above its wide flagstone courtyard in Phobjikha, blue sky and pine ridges behind

    Leave at 09:30, past Wangdue, and climb east. About 3 km before Pele La a side road turns south over Lawa La, 3,250 m, where yaks graze below the prayer flags, and drops into Phobjikha, the glacial valley where the black-necked cranes winter; their story is told in full on The Cranes of Phobjikha. Lunch at Gangtey Lodge at 13:00. At 15:30 we walk up to Gangtey Goenpa, and here the family line this journey follows comes into view. Gyalse Pema Thinley, grandson of Pema Lingpa, founded it in 1613; it was restored between 2000 and 2008, and its main hall rests on eight timber pillars said to be the largest in the country. Lay monks called gomchen keep it, and at dusk the lamps inside are theirs. Evening by your suite's wood stove, the valley dark and silent below.

    The momentComing over Lawa La and seeing all of Phobjikha at once: marsh, farms and the monastery on its spur

    InsiderAsk the gomchen about the founder's grandfather. Pema Lingpa's lake in Bumthang is on your route three days from now, and the story makes more sense in that order.

    If the weather turnsSnow can close Lawa La for a few hours in spring or late autumn. We wait in Wangdue over tea, drive up once it clears, and move the monastery to tomorrow.

    Meals
    Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
  7. Day 7 · Gangtey

    A valley walk and a seed-potato farm

    • 10 km, about 0.5 h
    • High point 3,000 m
    • Sleep at 2,900 m
    • Moderate
    A footpath climbing a grassy ridge to a small white tower above a wide misty valley floor in Wangdue Phodrang, Bhutan

    Breakfast at 08:00, frost on the grass if it is November. At 09:00 you walk the Gangtey Nature Trail, 90 minutes gently downhill from the mani wall north of the monastery to Khewa Lhakhang; from late October the cranes are back on the marsh below, and your guide carries a spotting scope. The car collects you at Khewa for a picnic. The afternoon belongs to a farming family and the crop Phobjikha is known for: seed potatoes. The cold valley keeps them free of the pests and diseases found lower down, and the family walks you through the fields and its potato store. Suja by their stove. Dinner at the lodge, and on a clear night step outside: with no street lights, the stars come right down to the ridges.

    The momentWalking out of the pines onto the open valley floor and hearing only the wind across the marsh

    InsiderIn October you may find the family sorting the potato harvest by size in the yard, all by hand. Ask to help for ten minutes; it is the best conversation of the day.

    If the weather turnsIf rain or snow sets in, we drive the valley road instead of walking, use the crane centre's indoor telescopes, and keep the farmhouse visit.

    Meals
    Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
  8. Day 8 · Gangtey Bumthang (Jakar)

    Pele La, Trongsa and the road into the heartland

    • 188 km, about 6 h
    • High point 3,420 m
    • Sleep at 2,600 m
    • Moderate
    Sunlit flagstone courtyard of a dzong in Trongsa district, steep wooden stairs rising to painted galleries on both sides

    The long day, stated plainly: 188 km, five to six hours at the wheel and about eight door to door. Leave at 07:30. Pele La, 3,420 m, marks the line between western and central Bhutan; on clear days Jomolhari shows on the horizon. Down to Chendebji Chorten, an 18th-century stupa in the Nepali style of Boudhanath, 41 km short of Trongsa. From the road you see Trongsa Dzong stacked on its spur above the Mangde Chhu gorge long before you reach it. A lama built a temple here in 1543, the Zhabdrung raised the first dzong in 1647, and it became the seat of the penlops of Trongsa: Ugyen Wangchuck governed from here before he was crowned the first king in 1907. Lunch in town at 12:00, then the dzong and, time allowing, the Ta Dzong museum above it. Over Yotong La, 3,436 m, and down through the Chumey valley, where we stop if you want yathra, the woven wool Bumthang is known for. Jakar by about 17:30, before dark.

    The momentSeeing Trongsa Dzong across the gorge, white and enormous, long before the road finally reaches its gate

    InsiderThe Ta Dzong watchtower above Trongsa became a museum in 2008 with Austrian help. An hour there tells the Wangchuck story better than any book we could lend you.

    If the weather turnsIf snow closes Pele La, we wait at Gangtey for the road to clear; if the day runs late, we book rooms in Trongsa and reach Jakar by 10:00 next morning.

    Meals
    Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
  9. Day 9 · Bumthang

    Jambay, Kurjey, Tamshing and the Burning Lake

    • 40 km, about 1.5 h
    • High point 2,700 m
    • Sleep at 2,600 m
    • Moderate
    Rows of butter lamps burning in brass bowls as offerings inside a Buddhist temple in Thimphu, Bhutan

    A day walked more than driven. At 08:30, Jambay Lhakhang, raised in 659 and so the twin in age of Kyichu, where you began. A short drive north, Kurjey Lhakhang, built beside the cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated; the remains of the first three kings lie here. From Kurjey a footbridge crosses the river and a path through the fields reaches Tamshing, founded in 1501 by Pema Lingpa. Its wall paintings are among the oldest in Bhutan, and he died here in 1521. Lunch is Bumthang food: puta, buckwheat noodles pressed through a wooden press, and khuli, thick buckwheat pancakes. At 15:30 the car climbs 30 minutes into the Tang valley, then a five-minute walk to Mebar Tsho, a pool in the river gorge where Pema Lingpa is said to have dived holding a lit butter lamp and surfaced with treasure, the flame still burning. Nuns from a nearby nunnery tend lamps on the rocks. Back past Wangdicholing Palace, where the first king was born in 1862.

    The momentSetting your own butter lamp on the ledge above Mebar Tsho as the gorge darkens around the flame

    InsiderMebar Tsho is deeper and faster than it looks, and people have drowned here in recent years. Stay on the rock ledge and let your guide place the lamp near the water.

    If the weather turnsIf a slip closes the Tang road, we swap Mebar Tsho for Jakar Dzong, the castle of the white bird, founded in 1549, and walk its courtyards at dusk.

    Meals
    Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
  10. Day 10 · Bumthang (Jakar) Paro airport

    Thirty-five minutes back to Paro

    • 15 km, about 0.5 h
    • High point 2,700 m
    • Easy
    Paro airport's runway and terminal seen from the hillside above, the river alongside and snow peaks at the valley head

    Breakfast is set by the flight. Bathpalathang airport sits about 3 km from Jakar on the valley floor at 2,700 m, with a single 1,200 m runway, and the car leaves the lodge 75 minutes before departure. Drukair's timing changes by month: in October and November 2026 the Bumthang flight leaves between 08:30 and 11:10 on most days, and in April 2027 at 06:30 or 07:40. The flight takes 35 minutes, and your guide flies with you. Your driver and car stay in Jakar until the aircraft is airborne; only then do they begin the two-day drive home. At Paro a second car meets you for lunch in the valley. Spring dates land you in time for the 11:55 to Delhi. In autumn the Delhi flight has already gone at 09:40, so Delhi guests take the extra Paro night below, while the 16:20 departure to Bagdogra on Mondays and Fridays connects the same day.

    The momentLooking down from a small aircraft on the passes you spent a week crossing by car

    InsiderThe Bumthang aircraft is small and its baggage allowance can be tighter than on international flights. We check yours at ticketing and send heavy shopping west by car.

    If the weather turnsIf cloud grounds the flight, the car is still in Jakar: we wait for the next departure or drive west that day, and rebook your onward ticket from the road.

    Tonight
    Homeward
    Meals
    Breakfast, Lunch

Where you will stay

Where you sleep, five houses

Zhiwaling Heritage, Pemako Thimphu, COMO Uma Punakha, Gangtey Lodge and Amankora Bumthang. Prefer a different house on any night? Say which and we re-price it.

  1. The stone and timber front of Zhiwa Ling hotel in the Paro valley of Bhutan lit at dusk
    Zhiwaling at dusk, the stone walls and painted timber galleries of the Paro valley house.Xiaojun Deng, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
    2 nights

    Zhiwaling Heritage

    Paro

    A heritage house of stone and painted timber with its own lhakhang, 20 minutes from the airport and about 25 from the Taktsang trailhead.

    Ask for Junior Suite, with breakfast and dinner in the rate

  2. The ochre and timber front of the hotel in Thimphu built as the Taj Tashi, now Pemako Thimphu
    The house itself in central Thimphu, photographed while it still traded as the Taj Tashi.Christopher J. Fynn, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
    1 night

    Pemako Thimphu

    Thimphu

    The former Taj Tashi, renamed in 2023: central, so the dzong, the Memorial Chorten and Norzin Lam are minutes away.

    Ask for Deluxe Room; ask for a higher floor, away from the street

  3. A long prayer flag footbridge over the river in the Punakha valley with terraced fields beyond
    The river below Punakha and its long prayer flag bridge, the valley the eleven rooms face.Darshan Chudasama / Unsplash
    2 nights

    COMO Uma Punakha

    Punakha

    Barely a dozen rooms above the Mo Chhu, breakfast and dinner in the rate, and a spa of two treatment rooms for the evening after Dochu La.

    Ask for Valley Room, king or twin, 27 to 34 sq m

    • BathroomValley Rooms have a bathtub with a separate shower
  4. The painted front of Gangtey Goemba, the monastery in the Phobjikha valley of central Bhutan
    Gangtey Goemba across its courtyard, the monastery the twelve suites look over.Prof Ranga Sai, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
    2 nights

    Gangtey Lodge

    Gangtey

    Twelve suites facing the valley and the monastery, each with a bukhari stove, stone floors warmed from below and a deep bath for nights near 3,000 m.

    Ask for Valley-facing suite with its own bukhari stove; breakfast, dinner and house drinks included

  5. Roofs and prayer wheels of Wangdicholing Palace under a fir tree at Jakar in Bumthang, Bhutan
    Wangdicholing Palace at Jakar, the grounds the sixteen suites stand beside.Andrea Williams, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
    2 nights

    Amankora Bumthang

    Bumthang

    Sixteen suites beside the grounds of Wangdicholing Palace in Jakar, birthplace of Bhutan's first king in 1862.

    Ask for Suite, full board

Price and what it covers

from₹9,50,000

per person, twin share, on Indian passports and October and November 2026 rates; March to May 2027 runs about ₹10,000 more. How our prices are built

About £7,410 or US$9,900 at the rates of 19 September 2026.

On other passports, about ₹10,29,000 (£8,030, US$10,720). Bhutan's Sustainable Development Fee is US$100 a night for most visitors, against ₹1,200 for Indian passports, for 9 nights here, plus a US$40 visa. How the fee works

Included

  • Nine nights: two at Zhiwaling Heritage, one at Pemako Thimphu, then two each at COMO Uma Punakha, Gangtey Lodge and Amankora Bumthang, with breakfast and dinner every night and lunch on days 2 to 10
  • A Prado-class SUV and Bhutanese driver from Paro to Jakar, and a second car waiting at Paro airport when the Bumthang plane lands (a Hiace for five or six guests)
  • A licensed Bhutanese guide for all ten days, who takes the Bumthang flight with you
  • Your Bhutan entry permit, or the US$40 e-visa on other passports, filed online before you fly
  • Bhutan's Sustainable Development Fee at the Indian rate for all nine nights, ₹10,800 a guest (how the fee works: /plan/what-it-costs/#bhutan-sdf)
  • The Drukair seat from Bumthang to Paro, economy
  • Entry at every temple and dzong named, at the rate your passport pays; the 2026 fees are set out on /plan/permits-and-visas/
  • A pony to the Taktsang cafeteria, booked ahead for anyone who wants one
  • A local SIM with data for each guest, and water and walking poles in the car
  • Our team in the Darjeeling hills on call 24x7 from Paro to Bumthang and back

Not included

  • International flights to and from Paro, booked by us around the Bumthang flight
  • On other passports: Bhutan's US$100 nightly fee in place of the Indian rate, and the US$40 visa, about ₹79,500 more each
  • Travel and medical insurance, which should cover evacuation from remote valleys
  • Tips for your guide and driver
  • Drinks outside each house's meal plan, and spa treatments
  • Laundry, shopping and personal expenses
  • The optional add-ons below

Make it more Arranged on request, priced in your quote

  • A last night in ParoA night at Zhiwaling, needed for Delhi on autumn dates: the Delhi flight leaves Paro at 09:40, before the Bumthang plane lands.
  • Two nights on a Darjeeling tea estateFly Paro to Bagdogra on a Monday or Friday and we drive you up to a working estate for two slow nights before home.
  • Jambay Lhakhang DrupFive days of festival from the 15th to the 19th of the ninth Bhutanese month, usually in October; we move your Bumthang nights to meet it once the dates are published.
  • Rafting the Mo ChhuA gentle morning float with a licensed rafting crew on the river below Punakha, ending within sight of the dzong.

Before you go

Before you go on this route

Choose another journey ifIf you have six nights or fewer, or long mountain roads unsettle you, choose Bhutan: The Western Valleys, which never strays more than a few hours from Paro.

  1. Papers: what Indian and other passports need for Bhutan, children's documents and the drone rule are set out on our Permits and visas page (/plan/permits-and-visas/). Send us clear scans three weeks ahead.
  2. Flights: Drukair publishes a new timetable each month, and the Bumthang days change with the season (daily in October 2026, none on Mondays in November, two a week from December), so we fix your dates only after checking both flights.
  3. Clothing: in October and November Thimphu runs from about 20 to 24 °C at midday down to 3 to 9 °C at night, spring is much the same, and Gangtey and Bumthang are colder, so bring a down layer. Dzongs and temples need long sleeves, trousers or a long skirt, and no hats.
  4. Altitude: your highest bed is about 2,900 m at Gangtey, on nights six and seven, after five nights lower down; Taktsang (3,120 m) and Pele La (3,420 m) are passed by day. We suggest no alcohol on your first night at Gangtey. How we plan for height: /plan/before-you-travel/#altitude-rules.
  5. Money and signal: the ngultrum is at par with the rupee, and your guide hands you a local SIM on arrival. Expect long gaps in signal on the Pele La road.
  6. Food: Bumthang cooks with buckwheat. Ask for khuli, the buckwheat pancakes, with your breakfast at Jakar.
  7. Tipping is your choice, and our suggested ranges are in Before you travel (/plan/before-you-travel/#tipping). On this route the driver's envelope is given in Jakar, because he drives home while you fly.

Questions

Six questions about Bhutan: Into the Heart

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Is nine nights really enough to reach Bumthang?

Yes, because of the flight home. Bumthang lies 188 km beyond Gangtey, a full day by road, so a journey that reaches it needs Paro, Thimphu, Punakha and Phobjikha on the way. Driving back west would add two long days in the car; the 35-minute Drukair flight from Bathpalathang to Paro gives those days to the valleys instead. With six nights or fewer, Bhutan: The Western Valleys is the better choice.

What happens if the Bumthang flight does not go?

Drukair's Bumthang flights change by month: daily in October 2026, every day but Monday in November, and only on Thursdays and Sundays in December and January. Cloud at either end can delay them, so your car and driver stay in Jakar until the aircraft is airborne. If it is grounded, we wait for the next departure or drive west that day, and rebook your onward ticket from the road.

Why climb Taktsang on day two rather than at the end?

Because this route never comes back to Paro except to change planes. Journeys that stay in the west can save the Tiger's Nest for the end; here the last week is spent in the centre of the country, and the Bumthang flight lands you at Paro airport on the morning you leave. So you climb on fresh legs, after an afternoon in Paro to meet the height, with ponies booked to the cafeteria.

Can we manage the long day from Gangtey to Bumthang?

It is long rather than hard. The road covers 188 km over Pele La, 3,420 m, and Yotong La, 3,436 m, with five to six hours at the wheel. We break it at Chendebji Chorten, over lunch and at Trongsa Dzong, so door to door it takes about eight hours, and you reach Jakar before dark. If snow closes a pass, we wait for the road to clear or sleep in Trongsa and finish the next morning.

Into the Heart or The Cranes of Phobjikha?

Choose The Cranes of Phobjikha if the birds are the reason: it is a winter journey of seven nights, three of them in the crane valley, with dawn at the roost. Into the Heart gives Phobjikha two nights, with the cranes back on the marsh from late October, then goes on over Pele La to Trongsa and Bumthang, which none of our other journeys reach.

Can we time the journey for the Jambay Lhakhang festival?

Often, in October. The Jambay Lhakhang Drup runs for five days, from the 15th to the 19th of the ninth Bhutanese month, at the temple raised in 659 that you visit on day nine. The lunar dates move each year, so tell us you want it and we set your two Bumthang nights to meet it once the dates are published, then build the rest of the journey back from Jakar.

Sources we checked for this itinerary (51)
  1. Drukair October 2026: Bumthang to Paro daily, departures 08:30 to 10:50 (plus a 12:50 Sunday flight); Bagdogra to Paro 09:40 to 11:00 Tuesdays and Saturdays; Paro to Bagdogra 16:20 Mondays and Fridays; Delhi to Paro 12:30 to 15:20 and Paro to Delhi 09:40 daily
  2. Drukair November 2026: Bumthang to Paro Tuesday to Sunday (08:30 Wed, 09:55 Fri, 11:10 other days), none on Monday; Paro to Bagdogra 16:20 Mondays and Fridays
  3. Drukair December 2026: Bumthang to Paro on Thursdays and Sundays only
  4. Drukair January 2027: Bumthang to Paro on Thursdays and Sundays only; Paro to Bagdogra 16:20 Mondays and Fridays
  5. Drukair April to 14 May 2027: Bumthang to Paro 07:40 Tue, Thu, Sat and 06:30 Wed, Sun; Delhi to Paro 04:45 to 07:15 and Paro to Delhi 11:55 daily; Bagdogra to Paro Tue and Sat
  6. Bathpalathang airport at 2,700 m with a 1,200 m runway, serving Jakar
  7. Bathpalathang airport about 3 km from Jakar town
  8. Monument fees for foreign visitors revised from Friday 18 Sep 2026: Taktsang Nu 2,000; Tashichho, Memorial Chorten, Kyichu, Rinpung, Punakha Dzong, Chimi Nu 1,000; Jampa Lhakhang, Buddha Dordenma, Trongsa Dzong and others Nu 1,000 from 23 Sep; under-18s half, five and under free
  9. Zhiwaling Heritage 2026 rates checked on its own rate page: Junior Suite, with breakfast, dinner and taxes included
  10. Zhiwaling Heritage: 12 acres, in-house temple, Menlha spa outdoor hot stone bath
  11. COMO Uma Punakha 2026 rates checked (breakfast and dinner included); described as eleven rooms with two treatment rooms
  12. Gangtey Lodge: 12 suites, bukharis, heated stone floors, deep baths; half board with house drinks; 2026 and 2027 seasons and room rates checked
  13. Amankora Bumthang: 16 suites adjacent to the Royal Wangdicholing Palace
  14. Amankora high-season rate checked through a secondary source (Aman publishes none); full board with guide and car; Bumthang lodge of 16 suites near Wangdicholing Palace
  15. Taj Tashi in Thimphu renamed Pemako Thimphu in 2023
  16. Gangtey to Bumthang 188 km, 5 to 6 hours; Punakha to Gangtey 78 km, 3 hours
  17. Bumthang to Gangtey took about 8 hours door to door with stops at Trongsa and Chendebji (2025)
  18. Lawa La 3,250 m, reached by a turnoff about 3 km before Pele La, gateway to Phobjikha
  19. Pele La 3,420 m divides western and central Bhutan; Jomolhari visible on clear days
  20. Chendebji Chorten, 18th century, Nepali style after Boudhanath, 41 km west of Trongsa
  21. Trongsa Dzong: first temple on the site in 1543, first dzong built by the Zhabdrung in 1647; seat of the Wangchuck penlops; Ugyen Wangchuck was Penlop before 1907; Ta Dzong museum 2008 with Austrian support
  22. Jambay Lhakhang built in 659 by Songtsen Gampo, one of 108 temples; Jambay Lhakhang Drup held over five days, 15th to 19th of the ninth Bhutanese month, in October
  23. Kurjey Lhakhang beside Guru Rinpoche's meditation cave; remains of the first three kings
  24. Tamshing built by Pema Lingpa in 1501, with some of the earliest wall paintings in Bhutan; he died in the temple in 1521
  25. Pema Lingpa born 1450 in the Tang valley; Burning Lake episode; ancestor of the House of Wangchuck
  26. Mebar Tsho 30 minutes from Chamkhar and a five-minute walk; nuns tend butter lamps; drownings since 2011
  27. Jakar Dzong 1549, castle of the white bird
  28. Jakar at 2,587 m; known for yathra woollen textiles
  29. Ugyen Wangchuck born at Wangdicholing Palace, Jakar, in 1862
  30. Gangteng Monastery founded 1613 by Gyalse Pema Thinley, grandson of Pema Lingpa; restored 2000 to 2008; gomchen lay monks; eight large pillars
  31. Phobjikha: U-shaped glacial valley near 3,000 m; underground power cables; seed potatoes; cranes late October to mid-February
  32. Gangtey Nature Trail, 90 minutes from the mani wall north of the monastery to Khewa Lhakhang
  33. 640 black-necked cranes in Phobjikha in the 2024 to 2025 count
  34. Kyichu Lhakhang 659, five minutes north of Paro; orange trees said to fruit all year
  35. Chimi Lhakhang 1499, Drukpa Kunley, 20-minute walk from Sopsokha, fertility blessing and babies' names drawn from bamboo slips
  36. Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten built 2004 by the Queen Mother; four storeys; 30-minute walk from a footbridge at Yepaisa
  37. Tashichho Dzong houses the throne room and king's office; summer seat of the Je Khenpo
  38. Buckwheat eaten mainly in Bumthang; puta noodles and hoentay dumplings
  39. SDF ₹1,200 per night for Indian nationals, US$100 for others until 31 August 2027; guide mandatory
  40. Taktsang hike about 6.4 km round trip and 520 m of ascent, 5 to 7 hours
  41. USD to INR about 96 on 19 September 2026
  42. COMO Uma Punakha official: Valley Room 27 to 34 sq m; 10 villas and rooms in total
  43. Pemako Thimphu 2026 room rates checked (Deluxe, half board, tax and service included)
  44. Punakha Dzong: Machey Lhakhang in the southern courtyard holds the embalmed body of the Zhabdrung; the casket is not opened
  45. Hero photograph: Jakar Dzong, Jakar, Bhutan, by Pema Gyamtsho
  46. Tipping rule of thumb for 1 to 2 guests: guide US$8 to 10, driver US$5 to 7 per person per day
  47. Royal Textile Academy of Bhutan, Thimphu: a training centre for traditional Bhutanese weaving under the patronage of Ashi Sangay Choden Wangchuck, which restores textiles for dzongs and monasteries
  48. Khuli, buckwheat pancakes, and puta, buckwheat noodles, are Bumthang dishes (Bhutanese local reviewer, September 2026)
  49. Hoentay is a dish of the Haa valley, eaten at Lomba, not Bumthang (reason for the day 9 correction)
  50. Yotong La 3,436 m on the Trongsa to Jakar road; published figures range from about 3,425 to 3,460 m
  51. Puta, buckwheat noodles pressed through a wooden press, is indigenous to Bumthang, as is khuli, buckwheat pancakes (both confirmed 20 September 2026)

Checked September 2026. We confirm permits, fees and flights again for your dates.

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Bhutan: Into the Heart, shaped around you

At its best October to November, March to May. Tell us your month and who is travelling, and we reply within 24 hours with this journey priced for your dates.

Length
9 nights
From
₹9,50,000 per person
At its best
October to November, March to May
Bases
Paro, Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey (Phobjikha valley), Bumthang (Jakar)
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AboutBhutan: Into the Heart, 9 nights

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