Day 2, 07:30 · Rumtek Monastery, across the valley
The door with five snow lions, and shoes left at the step
Rumtek faces Gangtok from across the Ranipool valley, 22 km and about an hour by road. Cars stop below the monastery, so the last stretch is on foot, past the village that lives under its wall. What meets you at the top is the door: five carved snow lions above it, and sandals in a row on the step. Inside is the Karmapa's seat in exile, rebuilt on an eighteenth-century foundation, and /journeys/monasteries-of-the-east/ gives that story and the morning assembly a whole day. Come in the first hour after the gates open, while the courtyard still belongs to the monks' college rather than the stalls. Keep photo ID in your pocket, because the seat is guarded and the guards ask for it. Half a kilometre below stands the older house the Karmapas found here, which almost nobody walks down to; that path is on /journeys/gangtok-and-the-high-lake/.