The bare golden ridges of Singalila near Sandakphu rolling towards the Kanchenjunga range, a lone blue tent pitched on the grass

Walking journeys

On foot, where the roads give out

Journeys for people who would rather walk to the view than drive to it, from day walks between proper beds to a week under canvas, honest about height, effort and the bed at the end.

  • 6private journeys

In short

What is the best trek near Darjeeling for a first-timer?

The Singalila Ridge, for most walkers. You sleep in simple, family-run lodges rather than tents, an old Land Rover shadows the walk and can collect anyone at any point, and two nights at Sandakphu, 3,636 m, give two dawns over Kanchenjunga and Everest. Choose Goecha La only if high camps are familiar ground, and Walking Western Bhutan if you want a hotel bed every night.

Decide first where you want to sleep: in a tent pitched by your own crew, in a simple lodge or family homestay, or in a hotel after each day's walk. How hard is each walk, below the journeys, sets out the beds, the highest night and the hardest day.

Height matters more than distance. If you have never slept above 3,000 m, begin with a route that sleeps lower and visits the high ground by day, and keep the camps near 4,000 m for a second trip. On every route here that climbs above 3,500 m the height comes in steps, and the guide carries a pulse oximeter and turns round when breathing says so.

The walking months are short. Autumn, from October into November, gives the clearest views and the coldest nights; spring brings rhododendrons, warmer days and more haze. Singalila and Neora Valley national parks close from 16 June to 15 September, snow shuts the high Sikkim camps from December to February, the road above Zuluk into March, and Chele La in January and February.

If your party mixes walkers and watchers, choose a hotel-based week, where anyone can spend a day with the car instead. If nobody wants a full walking day, the monastery week in Sikkim offers the hour up to Dubdi and the forest path to Sangachoeling. Passports narrow the list more than fitness does, so read the first question below before you settle on a route.

Choose by

Six journeys, side by side

Walks and treks: nights, first base, longest drive, best months and from-price
Starts inBest months
Walking Western Bhutan 7 Paro About 4.5 h October and November, and March to May ₹4,85,000
Kathmandu, Pokhara and the Annapurnas 7 Kathmandu About 2.5 h October to early December, February to April ₹2,50,000
The Singalila Ridge 5 Darjeeling About 3.5 h October and November, and March to May ₹95,000
Goecha La, Privately 10 Pelling About 6 h Mid October to late November, and March to mid May ₹1,90,000
Red Pandas and Rhododendrons 6 Darjeeling About 6 h Mid-March to early May (bloom peaks mid-March to late April) ₹95,000
The Old Silk Route 5 Kalimpong About 5 h October to mid November, April to May ₹90,000
A walker in a gho with a daypack climbs a dusty, sunlit trail through pines on the way to Taktsang above Paro Walking journey 7 nights

Walking Western Bhutan

Paro3Thimphu2Punakha2

Six day walks between real beds: Taktsang, Chele La at 3,988 m, Cheri and Tango, Lungchutse, the Mo Chhu.

October and November, and March to May from₹4,85,000
Machhapuchhre and the Annapurna range catching first gold light above dark foothills, Nepal Walking journey, Nepal 7 nights

Kathmandu, Pokhara and the Annapurnas

Kathmandu3Pokhara3Kathmandu1

Kathmandu's courtyards, then three nights on a Pokhara ridge where tea arrives at sunrise with Machhapuchhre.

October to early December, February to April from₹2,50,000
A wooden lodge on brown winter grass at Sandakphu, with the snow massif of Kanchenjunga filling the sky behind Walking journey 5 nights

The Singalila Ridge

Darjeeling1Tumling1Sandakphu2Darjeeling1

Walk the India and Nepal border to Sandakphu, 3,636 m, where Everest and Kanchenjunga share one horizon.

October and November, and March to May from₹95,000
Kanchenjunga's snow face rising at the head of a brown alpine valley on the Goecha La trail, a glacier moraine below Private trek 10 nights

Goecha La, Privately

Pelling1Yuksom1Trek camps: Sachen, Tshoka, Dzongri, Lamuney, Kokchurung7Yuksom1

Eight days on foot into Khangchendzonga National Park with your own crew, to Kanchenjunga at first light.

Mid October to late November, and March to mid May from₹1,90,000
Pink rhododendrons in full flower against a clear blue April sky in Darjeeling Spring naturalist journey 6 nights

Red Pandas and Rhododendrons

Darjeeling1Okhrey (West Sikkim)2Lava (Kolakham)2Kalimpong1

Barsey in bloom, Neora's bamboo from the first jeep, a naturalist beside you: six spring nights, told plainly

Mid-March to early May (bloom peaks mid-March to late April) from₹95,000
The Zuluk switchbacks stacked down a brown hillside in East Sikkim, cloud rising off the blue ridges behind Expedition journey 5 nights

The Old Silk Route

Kalimpong1Zuluk2Gangtok2

Up the old wool road towards Tibet, two nights with a Zuluk family, then over the top to Gangtok

October to mid November, April to May from₹90,000

Effort, compared

How hard is each walk

Read the hardest day and the highest bed together: the first tests your legs, the second your sleep.

JourneyWhere you sleepHighest bedHardest day on footBefore you book
Goecha La, PrivatelySeven nights in tents pitched by your own crewAbout 4,150 m, LamuneyTshoka to Dzongri: about 9 km and 1,040 m of climbing12 km with 800 m of climbing feels easy, and you have slept above 3,500 m
The Singalila RidgeTrekkers' lodges, simple and family-run; government lodges for foreign passports3,636 m, Sandakphu, two nightsThe last 6 km to Sandakphu, climbing about 470 mYou walk 10 km of hills comfortably
Walking Western BhutanHotels, every night2,320 m, ThimphuFive to six hours with about 500 m up and the same downSeveral such days in a row
Red Pandas and RhododendronsA family homestay and forest cabins, then hotelsAbout 2,300 m, OkhreyHilley to Barsey and back: 8 km, up to about 3,000 mYou manage 8 km on uneven, sometimes muddy ground
The Old Silk RouteTwo nights in a Zuluk family homestayAbout 2,800 m, ZulukWalks are short; the test is dawn near 3,700 m at LungthungIndian citizens only
Kathmandu, Pokhara and the AnnapurnasHotels and a ridge lodge1,340 m, KathmanduNagarkot to Changu Narayan: about 15 km, mostly downhill; the Kaski forts walk is five hours with climbsKnees matter more than lungs

Plan B, route by route

How each walk handles a bad day

Weather and breathing decide more walking days than fitness does.

  • The Singalila RidgeThe Land Rover is never far: it carries the bags and any tired legs, and in rain on the first day you ride the last 2 km into Tumling.
  • Goecha La, PrivatelyAn eleventh night buys a second morning at View Point 1. Anyone seriously unwell goes down at once with a guide, a porter and bottled oxygen.
  • Walking Western BhutanSeveral walks end at a waiting car, and a pony can be booked the day before for the Taktsang climb.
  • Red Pandas and RhododendronsOn a bad day the walk keeps to the rhododendron lanes above Okhrey, and a late snow that holds the bloom back is checked with the Okhrey family before you book flights.
  • The Old Silk RouteIf snow or the army shuts the road over Kupup, the car returns by Rongli and Rangpo, and you hear by 07:00.
  • Kathmandu, Pokhara and the AnnapurnasEvery walk has an easier version, such as the level three-hour Bhimirepani loop, and a car waits halfway on the Nagarkot walk.
A white four wheel drive on a rough track above a high mountain pond ringed with prayer flags, cloud below
A four wheel drive on a high track, the place not recorded. Arghyadeep Manna / Unsplash

Questions

Three questions about walks and treks

Which walking journeys are open to foreign passport holders?

All but one. The Old Silk Route is for Indian citizens only, because no permit for foreign or OCI guests covers Zuluk. Goecha La needs the online Sikkim permit about 30 days ahead, a trekking permit and a party of at least two, and Red Pandas and Rhododendrons also needs the Sikkim permit. On the Singalila Ridge an Indian visa is enough, but you sleep in government lodges on the Indian side. Bhutan and Nepal need their own visas.

Which walks can teenagers or children join?

Kathmandu, Pokhara and the Annapurnas takes children over ten, with an easier loop beside every longer walk. Red Pandas and Rhododendrons takes walking children over 12. The Singalila Ridge and Walking Western Bhutan suit active teenagers who walk regularly, and the Old Silk Route teenagers who travel well. Goecha La takes teenagers only with trekking experience, walking with a parent.

Which walk shows Kanchenjunga best without a tent?

The Singalila Ridge. From Sandakphu the range fills the northern horizon, the reclining line people here call the Sleeping Buddha, with Everest, Lhotse and Makalu about 145 km to the north-west, and two nights up there give two dawns. On the Old Silk Route it lines the horizon at first light from Lungthung, 3,700 m and some 80 km from the peaks, after a night with a Zuluk family. Only Goecha La puts you under the mountain, at View Point 1, and that means seven nights in camp.

Plan my journey

Which of these six fits your dates?

Four lines are enough to start: when, who, how to reach you, and the trip you picture.

Journeys
6
Length
5 to 10 nights
From
₹90,000 per person
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Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Gangtok, Pelling, Bhutan, Nepal

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