Day 1 · Kathmandu airport (KTM) Kathmandu
Kathmandu, by way of a carved courtyard
- 5 km, about 0.5 h
- High point 1,400 m
- Sleep at 1,400 m
- Easy
Whenever your flight from India lands, your guide from the valley waits beyond customs with a name card, and the car covers the short run to Battisputali in under half an hour when traffic allows. Keys are ready and bags go straight up. The Dwarika's is built from Newar carving saved from demolished Kathmandu houses, a collection begun in 1952, and the work has never stopped: before dinner, ask to see the restoration workshop, where craftsmen clean and rejoin old struts and window frames for the next wing. It is a fitting first evening for a journey about kingdoms, among the carved windows of houses that stood when Malla kings still ruled this valley. Sleep, swim, or walk the courtyards slowly. Dinner is at Krishnarpan, served course by course from produce grown on six farms the hotel draws on. Tomorrow begins at 05:15, so we keep tonight short and settle the bill before you sit down.
The momentStanding in a brick courtyard framed by carved windows rescued from houses that no longer exist.
InsiderThe Dwarika's keeps an evening arati of its own in the courtyards. Ask the desk for the hour, and you have a first taste of the Bagmati's fire without leaving the hotel.
If the weather turnsIf your flight lands late, Krishnarpan moves to day three and dinner comes to your room. The restoration workshop waits for the afternoon of day three.
- Tonight
- The Dwarika's Hotel, Kathmandu
- Meals
- Dinner




