Day 1 · Kathmandu airport (KTM) Kathmandu (Boudha)
Into Kathmandu, and a first kora at Boudha
- 6 km, about 0.5 h
- High point 1,400 m
- Sleep at 1,400 m
- Easy
Nonstop flights from India's big cities land at Tribhuvan through the day; foreign guests queue for the visa on arrival, and Indian guests walk through on a passport. Your guide from the valley waits outside with a name card, and the drive to Boudha takes about 20 minutes. Shambaling, a 1970s house built to lodge Tibetan pilgrims and restored in their style, stands in a lane of monasteries seven minutes on foot from the stupa, and we ask for your room to be ready at noon so you can sleep off the flight. At 16:30 walk down to the square. The dome rises 36 m, the largest spherical stupa in Nepal, and Newars still call it Khasti, a name tied to the dew said to have been gathered for its building. Tibetan families settled around it after 1959, and more than 50 gompas now ring the square. When the 2015 earthquake cracked the spire, private donors paid for the repair, more than 30 kg of gold among it, and the stupa reopened in November 2016. Walk the kora clockwise with the evening crowd, a hand running along the prayer wheels set into the base, then climb onto the lower terrace, where the mandala plan makes sense underfoot and the square's lamps come on below you. Dinner is at Lungta, the hotel's restaurant, where we ask the kitchen for Tibetan dishes, and bed comes early.
The momentStanding on Boudha's lower terrace at dusk, the kora turning below you like a slow river of robes and shawls.
InsiderWalk the kora clockwise, keeping the stupa on your right. Tibetan grandmothers notice a visitor who gets it right, and some will fall into step beside you.
If the weather turnsIf your flight lands after dark, the kora moves to tomorrow's dawn walk and dinner comes to your room. Rain never stops the kora; umbrellas wait at the door.
- Tonight
- Shambaling Boutique Hotel, Kathmandu
- Meals
- Dinner


